1971 - Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac

The 1971 Les Forts de Latour is a vintage I encountered once before in London. This example, poured blind at the château against the Grand Vin, is much better. This is immediate on the nose, the fruit with traces of more raspberry and wild strawberry than the Grand Vin, bright and open-knit. Pencil-shaving hints emerge with time in the glass. The palate is malleable and beautifully balanced, with a fine bead of acidity and a little more flesh on the finish. Just as the Latour soars, the Les Forts de Latour seems to run out of energy and fades in the glass. Nevertheless, it remains a mightily impressive wine for a 53-year-old Deuxième Vin. Well-kept bottles continue to give pleasure.